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BMW K75 K100 K1 K1100 Lost Key Service
(Note: Since a lot of R65, R80 and R100 models use the same key as K bikes I can probably help there too.)
$67 - U.S.A. Only
Click this link to email me
Over the years I have saved up copies of roughly 100 different K bike keys. Chances are if you've lost the key to your K bike or luggage then one of the ones I have will fit. I've done this for quite a few people and never not been able to find the right key.
IGNITION: All you need to do is mail me your ignition switch and/or seat lock. (Sending both ensures better results but the ignition lock is the most important one.) I'll try all of my different keys in your lock and probably be able to find a working key for you. Instructions on lock removal can be found at the bottom of this page.
SYSTEM CASES:I can also help if you've lost the key for system cases (a.k.a side cases, luggage, etc...) with the later "round" style latches/locks.
Here's a link to a PDF on DIY (do-it-yourself) removal and re-installation of system case locks:K.Side.Case.Locks.Rivets.pdf
You can either send me one lock and I will find a matching key for them or you can send me all six locks and a COPY of your ignition key (don't send me the only ignition key you have) and I can "rekey" all of the locks to work with your ignition key.
Two replacement keys cut by a locksmith that will work in the lock(s) you send me.
(The images above are of key blanks but the ones you
receive will be professionally cut to fit by a real locksmith.)
Return postage via USPS Priority Mail
1) You uninstall the ignition switch and/or seat lock (details on how to do this are described below). Or one or all six of the system case locks.
2) Mail them to me (I recommend using a USPS Priority Mail Small Flat Rate Box as it is economical and fast.)
3) I will find a working key for your lock and have two copies made by a professional locksmith. (Or rekey all six locks for system cases.)
4) I will return your locks to you with 2 replacement keys via Priority Mail as quickly as I can. (I now live in the boonies and the nearest locksmith is about an hour away so turnaround times may vary but let me know if you need this done quickly and I will do my best to accommodate you.
1) Although I'm pretty confident that I have a key that will match your lock(s), there is a remote chance that I do not. If that is the case then I'll give you a $53 dollar refund and return your locks to you. (The difference is to cover my return shipping cost.)
2) Removing the ignition switch from a K1, K100RS4V or K1100 is quite a project which entails drilling out the two security bolts that hold it in as well as some disassembly of the upper fork tree components. So in this case I'd recommend just sending me the seat lock.
Removing the ignition switch (K75 & 2V K100 only):
1) From the top, pry off the little plastic ring that surrounds the ignition switch.
2) You will see a rectangular slot on each side of the ignition switch. Place small screwdriver or other tool into each slot to depress the plastic tangs that hold the ignition switch in place. You should then be able to push the ignition switch down.
3) Remove the two bolts that hold the dash pad to the upper fork tree and push the ignition switch the remainder of the way out.
4) Remove the side covers.
5) Remove the seat.
6) Remove the two C clips that hold down the rear of the gas tank and lift the tank up so the posts are out of their grommets. (Or, for an 85 K100, remove the bolt that holds down the rear of the tank.)
7) Pull the tank back, lift up the right side of the tank and look for the four terminal connector for the ignition switch. It has four wires: red, green, gray and gray/blue. Disconnect that and pull the wiring for the ignition switch up through the steering head.
Removing the seat/helmet lock (not for K1 or low seat models):
1) Remove the two small Phillips screws at the top of the seat lock. (5 above)
2) Remove the two 8mm (8 above) nuts from the two carriage bolts (6 above) that hold the seat lock to the frame.