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I now have LED headlight bulbs at this link: Other Stuff
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BMW K75 K100 K1100 LED Instrument Cluster Upgrade |
Fits all K75, K100 and K1100 models. |
Contact: kbikeparts@gmail.com |
Crisper backlighting! LEDs last forever! |
NEVER HAVE TO PULL YOUR INSTRUMENT CLUSTER AGAIN! |
Replace all of the old filament bulbs in your instrument cluster with new LED bulbs. I also offer kits for the backlighting only as those kits offer the best bang for your buck. All LED kits come with instructions so don't worry if you've never opened up your instrument cluster before. Better backlighting: I have these installed in my own K bikes and the lighting is great. It's "crisper" and slightly brighter than the stock filament bulbs but not obnoxiously so. You'll be able to see the backlighting as soon as dusk starts to set in. I've been selling these kits for over a decade and nobody has ever asked for a refund. Why green is best for backlighting: The reason I sell kits with green backlighting kits is because that's what works best to illuminate the instrument cluster speedometer/tach faceplates as well as the LCD displays for the clock and gear indicator. Also, given how the human eye works, green is the best color for night which is why it is used by police and the military for night vision and FLIR. I have experimented with many other colors (even ultraviolet "black light") and green really does work best. LEDs last "forever": LED bulbs last "forever" and will definitely outlast even a K bike. If you've ever had to pull your instrument cluster just to replace a stupid little filament bulb then you know what a hassle that can be. Once you've installed these LEDs, you'll never have to worry about that again. If one of your bulbs is out now then this is the perfect time to upgrade to LEDs. "Plug-n-Play": The LED bulbs in these kits are direct 12V replacement LEDs that fit into the BMW OEM bulb sockets so installing them is as easy as changing the bulb. No special parts or resistors are required. Instructions: Each LED kit includes complete easy to follow instructions on how to install the LEDs. |
Prices: |
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"Complete" KIT: Complete kit to replace every bulb in your instrument cluster with LED bulbs |
$50 |
"Complete Plus" KIT: Complete kit to replace every bulb in your instrument cluster with LED bulbs plus additional LED bulbs for the separate round fuel and temperature gauges that some K bike models have
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$55 |
"Backlighting Only" KIT: Green LED backlighting only for instrument cluster |
$25 |
"Backlighting Only Plus" KIT: Green LED backlighting only for instrument cluster plus additional LED bulbs for the separate round fuel and temperature gauges that some K bike models have |
$30 |
"Upgrade" KIT: Only the indicator bulbs - for people who have already upgraded the backlighting |
$25 |
SHIPPING COST: |
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US Shipping |
$6 |
Non-US International Shipping
(Since the envelope is more than 1/4" thick it has to be shipped as a package) |
$15
$20 |
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SPECIAL OFFER: If you buy $100 or more in other parts from me, then you receive a $5 discount on the LED kits. |
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PAYMENT: I accept Zelle as well as USPS money orders and Canada Post money orders made out in US dollars. CLICK HERE to email me at kbikeparts@gmail.com for ordering or inquiry. When ordering please specify the year and model of your K bike. |
CAUTIONARY NOTE regarding the charge indicator LED: On some bikes, you'll notice that the charge indicator warning lamp is still lit once you've started the bike. This is because the circuitry in the voltage regulator needs to be "excited" for the alternator charging circuitry to kick in. All you need to do, once the bike is started, is rev it up to about 2,000 RPM until the charge indicator warning lamp goes out. Once the warning light is out, that tells you that the alternator is working to supply power to the bike and keep the battery charged. If you just start the bike and let it idle without getting the light to go out then the bike will be running from the battery and can drain the battery. This is a non-issue. I've been running these kits on my bikes for tens of thousands of miles and continue to do so without any problems.. Here's an example. This is a cold (34°F) 1991 K75S with a 50 amp alternator:
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