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Modifications to my 1993 K1100LT Update Oct. 8, 2012: Lots of good stuff here but this web page was built a couple of years ago and does not include all of the mods I've done since I authored it. I plan to redo it over the winter. Stay tuned...
This is my 1993 Pine Green K1100LT. I purchased it in 2004 with only 13,900 miles on it. It came stock with heated grips, an AM/FM cassette player and chrome engine protection bars. I decided it needed a few modifications over the years... |
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Lighting |
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Electrical |
Suspension/Steering |
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Seat |
Exhaust |
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Appearance |
Luggage |
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Miscellaneous |
Gear |
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Factory Specifications: BMW K1100LT Specifications |
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Instrument Cluster LEDs: My first round of replacing the instrument cluster and fuel and temperature gauge filament bulbs with LEDs consisted of redoing the backlighting. I used red LEDs to match the color of the bike. Since the LCD of the clock display is not very visible with red backlighting I used green to backlight the digital clock. In late 2008, I did some more experimenting and was able to replace every single warning lamp and the turn signal indicators as well so now every bulb in the cluster in LED illuminated.
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From the factory the LCD digital clock in the instrument cluster is in military or 24 hour time. Mine has been modified to now read in 12 hour time.
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From the factory, BMW K bike speedometers usually run about 10% high - so you have to do some math to figure out how fast you're going. I calibrated my speedometer that that it now only runs slightly fast. If the speedometer reads 70 then I'm actually going about 68 or 69 mph and staying the under 10mph allowance most police will give you.
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When I got this bike I started looking for some sort of throttle lock for it. I stumbled across several websites where others had adapted the Audiovox CCS-100 automotive cruise control to different motorcycles. I ordered one and then figured out how to install it on my K1100LT. It works great and, for about $100 total, it's the best mod I've ever done. I have the control pad mount on the clutch perch and can operate the cruise control without needing to remove my hand from the grip.
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I picked up a reconditioned TomTom Rider GPS on eBay from Hong Kong for less than $100 shipped. I figured that wasn't to much money to risk and my Magellan Meridian Platinum was getting to be pretty old technology so I wanted something with 3D mapping, a touch screen and newer maps and routing software. I also purchased the TomTom handlebar mount and power cord as well. Then I was able to download and hack some 2007 North America maps. Unfortunately, out of the box the TomTom rider does not store tracks. I like that feature because it allows me to download the track after a ride and easily chart a map of where I've been. Fortunately, I found some third party software called Tripmaster that runs in the background and automatically stores tracks on the SD card in the TomTom. The Tripmaster software also has a feature which displays the altitude on the TomTom display every five seconds. The TomTom Rider also has several features which allow for customization of it. I created my own "car icon" which looks like my K1100RS from the rear:
I also changed the startup and shutdown screens. Startup screen:
Shutdown screen:
MENUS & DOCUMENT READER For safety or liability reasons, the TomTom Rider has an extremely limited four function menu when the unit is mounted on a motorcycle and moving. I find this extremely annoying. I was able to disable this "feature" and get full menus by placing a small piece of electrical tape over one of the contacts on the back of the unit. The TomTom line of GPS units also has an SDK which allows you to customize the menus. The software also includes a document reader but for some reason that doesn't show up on the default menu. By composing my own menu I am able to gain access to the document reader, reorganize the menus to my liking and get rid of unwanted menu functions.
MOBILE WEB The TomTom document reader allows viewing of HTML and text files as well as several common graphics file formats. I created a small web on the TomTom SD card and all of the following can be accessed from the index page I created:
POINTS OF INTEREST Like most modern GPS units the TomTom allows you to add your own POI categories in addition to all of the preloaded POIs. Along with loading the POIs from my prior GPS I loaded a list of BMW dealers and independent BMW shops in North America. I've also added several other POI categories for some of my favorite restaurants, gas stations, retailers, post offices, etc.... from places like The POI Factory and The GPS Data Team.
SHOP MANUALS On the TomTom Rider's SD card I have also loaded the BMW factory shop manual and the Clymer manual for K bikes. Although they are in PDF format and not viewable on the TomTom, it might be useful to have them with me someday. |
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I originally built this mounting bracket for my Magellan Meridian Platinum GPS but when I got the TomTom Rider GPS it turned out to work perfectly for that as well. It mounts on and off the bike in a minute or two and is very stable. Here it is with the TomTom rider mounted. The angled part at the top slips in between the top of the fairing and it's inner panel. I installed some hardware for the lower attaching point so that it is held in place by a knob with a machine screw on the end. It is constructed out of aluminum bar stock.
I also installed a 1/8" jack to provide switched 12 volt power to the GPS. Here's an older picture of it with the Magellan GPS installed:
I originally had it painted in flat black but later had it powder coated in glossy black for a more durable finish.
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As I was building my GPS mount, I had an inspiration and realized that by adding a tab to the top of the GPS mounting bracket and using the top of a small tripod I could make a camera mount for filming riding videos with my digital camera. Wind rushes over the microphone so I either have to eliminate the audio or dub some music in but it works quite well. Click this link to see some of my riding videos.
With the tripod top mounted:
My tripod is an UltraPod:
With camera mounted:
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AM/FM MP3 CD Player with Marine Remote on Handlebars: I wanted to get rid of the stock AM/FM Cassette deck and replace it with something a bit more up to date. However, I also wanted to maintain the functionality of having a handlebar remote. After doing some research, I decided upon the Pioneer DEH7600MP head unit and the Pioneer CD-MR70 Marine Remote. This would give me the capacity to hold hundreds of songs per CD (even more with an MP3 bit rate of 96k as opposed to the normal 128) and allows me to have a waterproof handlebar remote.
I had a custom bracket made to mount the marine remote where the old handlebar remote was for the AM/FM Cassette Deck.
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Between this bike and my prior bike, a K75RT, I've blown a lot of speakers. Given the fairing, the biggest speakers you can get in the fairing are 4" and you just can't get decent bass out of a 4" speaker. After trying (and blowing) lots of different speakers, I've finally settled on CDT CL-4X speakers. For their size these put out some pretty decent sound and I avoid blowing them at high volume by setting the high pas filter at 80 Hz it keeps damaging bass from blowing them. |
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Hidden Beltronics RX-65 Radar Detector with Siren: I wanted to run a radar detector without it being obvious. After doing some research I selected the Beltronics RX-65 because it's one of the top three radar detectors and has the smallest exterior dimensions.
I built a small box out of ABS plastic with a clear acrylic window and then made a bracket for it and mounted it in the lower left faring. I installed a 108 dB Piezo Siren (high pitched buzzer) and hooked that up to the earphone outlet of the radar detector. I can hear it with a helmet on and earplugs in at speed. I have it set to automute so I get a good 4 or 5 warning buzzes and then it quiets.
I have the default display of the radar detector set to volts so it doubles as a digital voltmeter for the bike. I turn it on and off using a switch I mounted in the upper dash.
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I hid a key chain garage door opener in the fairing and converted the power switch for the radar detector so that the up position of the switch acts a as garage door opener.
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The early K1100LTs used a typical dash mounted 3 way BMW switch to raise and lower the electric windscreen. In the last couple of years of production the windscreen up and down switches were integrated into the left side handlebar switches. These make windscreen operation while riding easier so I upgraded my left side switches with a newer set of left side switchgear. An added benefit is that it also freed up one of the other switch slots.
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I use a 3 position rewired BMW heated grip switch to operate my fog and driving lights. I replaced the graphic switch insert with an orange one to differentiate it from the real heated grip switch. The switch is wired as follows:
Wired like this the fog lights are only on with the low beam and the driving lights are only on with the high beam. When I flash my high beam during the day, this makes it so that my fog lights go out simultaneously. This should make my flashing the lights more obvious to others. Since the driving lights only go on with the high beam, they are dimmed automatically when I switch to the low beam so as not to blind oncoming traffic.
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Since I don't like it, I disabled the side stand cut-off switch so that I could run my bike on the sidestand. I rewired the switch with a relay so that it illuminates a flashing green alarm LED that I mounted in a switch blank to remind me to put the side stand up.
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Since I ride year round I like to know what the temperature is so I know when there's a chance of ice forming. I ordered this a while ago and it is still on backorder so I have not installed it yet. Hopefully it will be here by summer. |
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Headlight Relays: From the factory, the lighting on these bikes is not that great. Some of this is due to the way the low beam cuts off sharply at top. In addition, the wiring is pretty thin. This results in less voltage getting to the headlight, making it dimmer than it could be with full voltage. In addition, the headlight power runs through the switch. Each time you switch the lights a small spark is created. Over time this will gradually deteriorate the switch until it finally fails. Adding relays lengthens the service life of the switch since only a very small amount of current is required to trigger the headlight relays. I also upgraded the wiring to 14 gauge. This not only increases the voltage that gets to the headlight but also allows me to run a higher wattage bulb without fear of burring up the wiring. |
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From the factory the bike had a halogen 55/60 watt bulb. Though great in their time, halogen lights are rather old technology these days. I upgraded to a Xenon 90/100 watt H4 and, with the headlight relays, the lighting is vastly improved. It's not Hid but it's close. It also makes the headlight more visible during the day.
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In my never-ending LED pursuit, I removed the stock 10W parking light bulb at the top of the headlight assembly and replaced it with a bar of 18 amber LEDs.
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Fork Mounted Orange CATZ XLO Fog/Daytime Lights: A friend of mine has some of these and after riding with him I ad to get a pair. They're 70 watts each, bright and have a very orange. They make the bike stick out much better in traffic during the day. Given their bases, they were very easy to mount to the forks with a stainless steel bolt and some stainless steel standoff spacers.
Having them on during the day makes a noticeable difference in reducing the number of car drivers that don't see me and also makes lane splitting easier when I'm riding in California.
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Mirror Mounted Hella FF50 Driving Lights: Although my 100 watt Xenon high beam puts out quite a bit of light, I added driving lights to give me a wider field of vision when riding at night and to help me spot critters like deer. Given their reputation, I bought some Hella FF50 Driving Lights on eBay for about $40 shipped. and mounted them on brackets under the mirrors. They came with halogen bulbs which I upgraded to Xenon bulbs which give off much more light that is whiter.
I also added some clear Hella Lexan covers to protect them from rocks and gravel. |
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Ever since I had my old K75RT, I'd wanted to find a way to convert the turn signals to LEDs. The big problem is that swapping in LED bulbs for the filament bulb makes the flasher relay think one or more of the bulbs is out and it will "hyperflash." This can be overcome by adding load resistors but that seemed sort of kludgy to me so I decided to see if I could find a way to overcome the hyperflash issue without using load resistors. There are lots of LED flasher relays out there but I wasn't able to find one that would accommodate the momentary handlebar switches that BMW uses for the turn signal and cancel switches. So I had to take an LED flasher relay and add some latching relays and diodes on the front end to deal with the BMW momentary switches. As I started to solder my new relay circuit together I quickly realized that with care I could build a circuit small enough to fit into factory flasher relay and have "plug-n-play" solution. When I was finished building the LED flasher relay circuit, I gutted on old non-working flasher relay and soldered my circuit to the pins. Not only does my flasher relay emulate the BMW relay without hyperflashing but it also emulates how the hazard lights work. Namely that the hazards can only be turned on when the bike is turned on with the key but will remain on when the bike is turned off. But they cannot be turned on without the key. This keeps people from turning on your flashers and running down your battery when you're not around. High power 1156 SMD LED bulbs that I'm running now with my modified flasher relay:
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Turn Six Front LED Marker/Turn Signal Lights: I added some Turn Six LED marker lights to the front fairing lowers. They're wired to flash off when the turn signals flash on so they serve as both side running lights and side turn signals. I usually only run them at night so I added a switch for them in the upper dash.
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The stock rear side reflectors on the 4 valve K bikes are kind of small and are held on by double-sided tape. The K75 rear reflectors are taller and are screwed on so they're better and won't eventually fall off.
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I wanted to run an LED tail light. However, the bike has a bulb monitoring unit that lights up a warning light if your tail light or brake light goes out. I removed the bulb monitoring unit and shorted some wires across it's wiring harness connectors to remove it. Now I can run an LED tail light without the warning light coming on in the instrument cluster. I would run an LED brake light too but the cruise control runs a small reverse current through the brake light bulb to make sure the brake circuitry is working. Therefore, if I used an LED brake light bulb then the cruise control wouldn't work. |
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Text here.
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Chrome LED License Plate Frame: Text here.
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There's a car-like dome light in the upper front center of the dash panel. I also upgraded that to a nice bright very white LED.
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Auxiliary Fuse Block: To handle my add-ons, I added a four circuit auxiliary fuse block next to the factory fuse block. |
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Upgrade Alternator from 32A to 50A: The stock factory 32 amp alternator works fine but once you start adding things like fog and driving lights it becomes overtaxed. I swaped in a 50 amp alternator from a later K1100 and now have all of the electrical power I need. |
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I wanted to electrify my tank bag in order to allow me to charge my phone on the road as well as being able to run a radar detector in my tank bag. I used an RV roof connector which accepts standard two lead SAE connectors and has a waterproof cover for when it's not in use.
For the mounting inside the tank bag, I found a stainless steel washer with the right inner and outer dimensions at the hardware store. The diameter of the connector and the washer were too large so I had to trim them down prior to installation.
Then I made a short cable with a Powerlet plug to plug into the added Powerlet socket on the dash pad and an SEA two lead connector on the other end to plug into the tank bag socket. I made the cable long enough so that it can still be used when the rain cover is on the tank bag.
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From the factory the K1100LT comes with a sidestand cut-off switch so that the bike won't run with the side stand down. I never liked this safety feature so I shorted the connector to the fuel injection computer so the bike now runs on the side stand. As noted above, I also wired a relay to the switch to light up a flashing warning LED in the upper dash. |
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Ohlins Rear Shock: I saw this Ohlins rear shock with rebound and compression damping on eBay for a decent Buy It Now price six months before I even bought the bike. I knew it was easily worth the price and I could resell if need be. Well, as luck would have it, I bought this bike six months later and it was one of the first things I installed.
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I switched from the stock 3.00 x 17 rear wheel to a 4.50 x 18 rear wheel from aK1100RS and am running Michelin Road Pilot 2 tires front and rear. This is confidence inspiring and makes the feel very planted when riding.
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I've got a set of Race Tech fork springs to stiffen up the front suspension. It's pretty good as it is though so I'm waiting until I need to replace a fork seal to install these springs.
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When I get around to installing the fork springs I've got some fork boots to install as well.
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From the factory K1100s come with the handlebar clamps mounted in rubber bushings to reduce the vibration transferred to the handlebars. This is OK I guess but it makes the steering a bit mushy. I added some washers at the bases of the bushings which stiffened up the handlebar mounts so that they're virtually rock solid now. The steering input is greatly improved and there isn't any discernable increase in vibration that I can tell. But I've never had a vibration issue on this bike anyhow.
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My first experience with ProGrip Model 699 gel grips was that they were on my K75 when I purchased it. I always liked them and, when tooling around at slow speeds in National Parks at low speeds, found them to be quite comfortable even without gloves. They are much better than the ribbed hard rubber BMW OEM grips, seem to transfer heat from the heated grips just as well and are one of the first things I put on any K bike I own.
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Ceramic Coated Staintune Exhaust: The factory exhaust on K1100s looks nice but has a few issues. To start with, the headers are welded to the exhaust can. This makes it cumbersome to remove and reinstall. The welds at the collector also have a tendency to crack and be difficult to repair. Finally, the K1100s were the first bikes to have catalytic converts. This makes the exhaust heavier and even more cumbersome to deal with during maintenance. I picked up this Staintune exhaust on eBay. I got it with the headers for a very low price because I was the only bidder. It had lots of surface rust and looked like junk. For $80, I had it ceramic coated in a brushed aluminum finish. It doesn't look as nice the factory chrome exhaust but looks good enough, weighs less, is easy to clean and simplifies maintenance.
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3.5" Euro Cut Cee Bailey Tinted Windscreen:
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It's next to impossible to keep the finish on the factory gas cap looking nice. Mine is now powder coated in chrome.
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Perforated Stainless Steel Side Vents: After doing something similar on my K1100RS, I decided to replace the open plastic send vent grills with perforated stainless steel. These look much nicer than the old black plastic ones.
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From the factory the two ignition coils are exposed and, in my opinion, ugly. I fashioned a cover plate out of aluminum and had it powder coated.
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The RS lettering on the bottom of the windscreen is a hassle to clean around so I got rid of it and mounted a small acrylic BMW roundel with gold accents roundel to the front of the bike.
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A friend of mine used to sell these on eBay. It's a high quality metal and enamel badge. The Deutsche Gesellschaft zur Rettung Schiffbrüchiger is a Coast Guard-like organization founded in the 1800s and is one of the most advanced originations of it's type in the world. It is funded solely by donations.
But the
reason I have it on my bike it that I think the red Iron Cross with German
letting looks great on a red BMW. |
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I've replaced just about all of the visible hardware on this bike with stainless steel hardware. You can buy kits on eBay to do this but I went to a local screw company and did it myself. |
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The bolts that hold the front brake rotors and ABS ring on are rather dingy looking. I wanted to replace them with stainless bolts. For the rotor bolts I did not want to sacrifice strength so I decided it would be best to get Grade A4 stainless steel. Being metric, I could not find any in the US so I ended up getting them from an eBay seller in the UK. For the ABS ring, I used normal Grade A2 stainless steel since strength is not an issue there.
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BMW Multivario Tank Bag: I used to like the Bagster tank bag but my preference has turned back to the BMW Multivario tank beg. It has two level storage compartment, is expendable with a third center section and has a map window on the top. It also has a detachable yellow rain cover. The map window is rather narrow given the shape of the tank bag but with the advent of GPS that drawback is more or less moot these days. It's good for holding my radar detector too. |
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This came with my K1100LT. The nice thing about this tank bag is that the base is a full tank bra which protects the tank and that the rain cover is built into on the bottom of the front. But the rain cover is all black so you can't see the map window when the rain cover is on. It's also easier to get on and off during fillups so it's still a good tank bag. But these days I prefer the BMW one. |
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Early on in my K bike career there were two things that routinely irritated me. First, when you open the system cases when they are on the bike, the contents of the inner half can fall out past the elastic "X" that's supposed to hold things in there. One day I had an inspiration and built some retainer panels to hold the contents in when the cases are opened while on the bike. I used white board left over from a home message board project. I might make some new ones out of ABS or aluminum someday but these have worked fine for years. The other issue is that the elastic inside the cases is pretty wimpy and gives out after a fair amount if use. I've replaced the factory elastic with 1/4" bungee cord which is stronger and will outlast the BMW elastic by a country mile. It would cost $45 to replace the elastic with OEM parts. For $4 I can get better results. It's a no-brainer.
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This is a BMW 33 Liter top case that I picked up on eBay for about $50. Some had mutilated the K1100LT mounting base in order or mount it on another bike so nobody else bid on it. Since I have a Reynolds Rack and was going to figure out my own mounting system anyhow, that was not an issue to me. For a few dollars at the hardware store for some bolts and spacers, I developed a way to mount it to the Reynolds Rack. It takes a couple minutes to install/uninstall it given the bolts so it won't pop on and off like other top cases but I have a liner bag fits it almost perfectly so that's not an issue to me. I also rekeyed the lock core to work with my ignition key. And the Reynolds Rack is much sturdier than the plastic BMW mounting rack.
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These are my BMW city cases. They don't hold as much as system cases but are top loading and give the rear of the bike a narrower profile for slipping through traffic.
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I have a waterproof bag made by Pangea that just fits all of my camping gear and the tarp I use to cover my bike at night when touring and is easily strapped down on the rear seat. I originally purchased it several years ago to use when fishing but it's worked out great on my bikes and been all around the US and Canada with me.
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Highway Pegs: One of the issues with the K1100RS is the amount of heat put off near the knees. A friend of mine experimented with insulating the under of the tank and sided of the engine compartment with foil backed bubble insulation. It certainly helps. |
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One of the issues with the K1100RS is the amount of heat put off near the knees. A friend of mine experimented with insulating the under of the tank and sided of the engine compartment with foil backed bubble insulation. It certainly helps. |
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Another issue in the heat department is that the return fuel line is located right behind the radiator which heats the gas and ends up making the gas tank warmer. For a while in the 90s BMW insulated some of the fuel lines. Since that is still available as a separate part, I ordered several sections of it and insulated all of the fuel lines and the fuel rail. My gas tank stays a little cooler now. |
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There are two outlet pipes under the right rear of the gas tank. Typically these are routed by hoses to drain behind right rear foot peg. If the gas tank is not installed properly these can get kinked and not operate as designed. On some of the earlier K bikes, BMW installed a square cup underneath them to catch the gas and drain it out through one hose behind the right peg plate. I've gotten rid of the hoses and replaced them with one of those cups. This makes gas tank removal and installation much easier and since it doesn't get moved around the drain hose will not get kinked. |
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For some reason BMW never made a font fender extender for the K1100s. However, there was a Canadian company that made them for a while. I salvaged this one from my parts K1100RS.
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Twin-Max: This is my favorite tool. I use it too synch the throttlebodies whenever I have the fairing side panel off or change the spark plugs. It keeps the throttlebody airflow balanced resulting in a smoother running bike.
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After riding around getting cold for a few years, I finally broke down and bought a used Aerostich heated fleece vest. It worked great but my arms would get chilly so when Tourmaster recently came out with their Synergy line of affordable heated gear I decided to buy a heated jacket liner. With an 10% off eBay coupon I was able to get it new for about $120 on eBay.
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The one part of me that would really get cold when riding was my toes. Putting heat packets in my boots worked but was kind of a hassle. When I bought the Synergy jacket I found some 12V heated boot insoles on sale for $10 and wired them into the pants power outlet from the jacket. They are controlled by the controller for the jacket and take good care of my exposed boot toes without getting my feet too hot.
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| Start of Production | 1989 |
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| End of Production | 1999 | ||
| Number Produced | 22,757 | ||
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Engine |
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Motor Type |
Four-stroke horizontal four cylinder in-line engine, liquid cooled | ||
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Bore x Stroke |
70.5 x 70 mm (2.77 x 2.75 in) | ||
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Displacement |
1092 cc | ||
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Max Power |
100 hp (74 KW) at 7,500 rpm | ||
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Max Torque |
107 Nm / 78.9 ft lb at 5,500 rpm | ||
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Compression Ratio |
11 : 1 | ||
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Valves Per Cylinder |
4 | ||
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Valve Control |
DOHC, using drive chain and cup tappets | ||
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Carburetion System |
Electronic injection, Bosch Motronic MA 2.2 | ||
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Engine Lubricating System |
Wet sump | ||
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Power Transmission |
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Clutch |
Dry single plate | ||
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Number of Gears |
5 | ||
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Gear Selection |
Dog type gearbox (ratchet foot lever) | ||
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Gearbox Ratios |
4.50 / 2.96 / 2.30 / 1.88 / 1.61 : 1 | ||
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Rear Wheel Ratio |
1 : 2.81 | ||
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Bevel/Crownwheel |
11 / 32 teeth | ||
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Electrical System |
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Ignition System |
Electronic ignition, Bosch Motronic MA 2.2 | ||
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Alternator |
12 V 700 W | ||
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Starter |
0.7 Kw | ||
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Spark Plugs |
Bosch XR 5 DC / Beru 12 R-5 DU | ||
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Chassis |
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Type of Frame |
Tubular space frame, engine serving as load bearing component | ||
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Front wheel suspension |
Telescopic fork with hydraulic shock absorber | ||
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Rear wheel suspension |
BMW Paralever swinging arm | ||
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Spring Travel Front/Rear |
135 / 120 mm (5.31 x 4.72 in) | ||
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Wheel Rims, Front |
2.50 x 18 MT H 2 | ||
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Wheel Rims, Rear |
3.00 x 17 MT H 2 | ||
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Tires, Front |
110 / 80 VR 18 | ||
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Tires, Rear |
140 / 80 VR 17 | ||
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Brakes, Front |
Dual disc brake 305 mm / 12 in diameter. Brembo 4 piston caliper | ||
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Brakes, Rear |
Single disc brake 285 mm / 11.22 in diameter | ||
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Dimensions/Weights |
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Length x Width x Height |
2250 x 915 x 1450 mm (88.58 x 36 x 57 in) | ||
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Wheel Base |
1565 mm / 61.61 in | ||
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Fuel Tank Capacity |
22 liters / 4.84 gal / 5.81 gal US | ||
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Unladen Weight with Full Tank |
290 Kg / 638 lb | ||
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Max. Permissible Weight |
500 Kg / 1101 lb | ||
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Ground Clearance |
125 mm / 4.92 in | ||
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Seat Height (Unladen) |
810 mm (31.89 inches) | ||
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Fuel Consumption (constant 90 Kph) |
4.9 liters 100 Km / 57 mpg / 48 mpg US | ||
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Top Speed |
210 Kph / 130 mph | ||
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Acceleration 0 - 100 Kph / 62 mph |
4.3 seconds | ||
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Power Graph:
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